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Overview – Tankardstown House Hotel : Brabazon Restaurant Tasting Menu – Land and Sea

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As we were staying at Tankardstown House Hotel for two nights, for our first evening’s dinner, we chose the Land and Sea Tasting Menu.  We were seated in front of the Kitchen Pass, which is open.  I watched, mesmerised, as the Chefs worked, each totally focussed on the dishes they were preparing, and not a voice was raised during the entire service.

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We were served a tasting plate of smoked charcuterie, sliced duck breast, salami and chorizo, all from the on-site smoke-house at Tankardstown House. This was accompanied by a celeriac remoulade, home-made brown and white mini loaves, and smoked butter.

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 Brabazon Smoked Salmon, Mi Cuit, Pickled and Raw Vegetables

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Mi Cuit, house smoked and gin cured salmon, curd, compressed cucumber, carrot, beetroot, and radish

This was a dish which, when placed in front of you, makes you want to gaze at it, admire it, and then, eventually, eat it.  Every element worked beautifully, light, delicate, and elegantly plated.

 Hen’s Egg – cooked at 62° for 40 minutes, garnished with chopped chives

We were told, that when gently stirred with a spoon, it would achieve the consistency and flavour of a Béarnaise Sauce.  Where the white wine vinegar was hidden, I do not know, suffice it to say it tasted of exactly that, delicious.

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Compressed and sugared Rhubarb – a perfect palate cleanser

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 Hake, Cauliflower, Pollen and Ink

Puréed cauliflower, charred florets, fennel pollen, squid ink and lemon confit .  The squid ink acted as a sauce and seasoning, which, for me, brought the flavours of the dish together.

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 Hay-Smoked Duck Breast, Parsnip, Leeks and Duck Jus

Duck breast smoked in hay, with parsnip purée, burned leeks, and white chocolate powder

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 Crème Fraîche Soufflé, Preserved Blackberry Sorbet (Blackberries from the Kitchen Garden on the Estate

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 Textures of Organic Chocolate, Yoghurt, Olive Oil, Rose

Organic chocolate lattice, parfait, yoghurt mousse, olive oil crumb, crystalised rose petals, chocolate bubbles and pistachio

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This Tasting Menu surprised and delighted with each course.  The service was very well paced, and the portion sizes expertly judged.  We had a wonderful night of superb dishes from Head Chef Robbie Krawczyk and his Team.  As we were staying for two nights, we had the À la Carte menu to look forward to on the following evening, which will be covered in my next post.

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